The United Jam Show, FW25
Il primo Runway Show di PDF, uno spettacolo dentro lo spettacolo
Energized by the momentum of his breakthrough presentation last June, Domenico Formichetti solidified his creative vision with his first runway show for PDF. More than a show, today was a statement of intent: Claim PDF’s position as an audacious player at Milan Fashion Week.
PDF draws on the crosscurrents of cultural movements that defined the late 20th century and reimagines them for a new era. Known for outfitting cultural icons like Rihanna, Justin Bieber, Drake, J Balvin, and Doja Cat, PDF works on creating cultural touchstones.
This season, Formichetti plunged into the gritty vibrancy of 90s and 2000s hip-hop, the golden age when music videos became urban mythology and style was an act of defiance. Drawing from films like Boyz n the Hood, Paid in Full, and Menace II Society, “United Jam” channels a world where oversized jerseys, Timberlands, and baggy denim were as much armor as aesthetic. These were garments that spoke volumes—of resilience, aspiration, and rebellion.
Yet, this collection is not a nostalgic homage but a recontextualization. Outdoor sports references provide a counterpoint to the urban grit. The collection’s exaggerated proportions and layered silhouettes take cues from the bold, practical designs of snowboarding gear, merging technical innovation with streetwear’s raw energy. Blazers with deconstructed lapels, utilitarian overalls in iridescent fabrics, and quilted outerwear blend technicality with a sense of play.
At its core, this collection is about hybridity,” says Formichetti. “It’s about how cultures collide—hip-hop and snowboarding, the streets and the mountains—and how those intersections create something entirely new. I wanted to design pieces that carry the energy of a music video but function like performance gear.”
Formichetti’s commitment to community was woven into the DNA of the presentation. The runway was a melting pot of talent—models, artists, and friends of the brand, including Moise Keane, Sita Abellan, Alvin Kamara and Taylil James. Each look told a story, from graffiti-inspired prints that nodded to the visual language of 90s album covers to oversized silhouettes that recalled the sartorial swagger of Harlem in its heyday.
United Jam is a cultural dialogue. It speaks to a generation raised on MTV’s TRL, VHS bootlegs, and mixtapes—the analog era that birthed today’s digital revolutionaries. It also challenges the binaries of luxury and streetwear, performance and aesthetics, suggesting a world where these boundaries no longer exist.
PDF’s first runway show was a bold step forward for a brand that has always thrived on disruption. In the words of Formichetti: “This is a love letter to the culture that shaped me, but it’s also a provocation—a call to imagine what’s next.”
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